Helsinki in 1950’s

RedWing Beckman Boots

These Red Wing Boots have now about 5 years of on and off use. They are the most comfortable pair of Boots that I own. The Beckman boot is a very versatile model that can be both rugged and a bit dressier boot when polished and matched with something like chinos.

RRL Buffalo Western shirt

The Buffalo Western shirt by DoubleRL is one of my all time favourite shirts. It’s part of the RRL Iconic collection that is available every season in rigid denim.

There has been also different washes and fabrics versions but the dark, unwashed Denim is the staple.

Versatile and classic western shirt and I especially like the pocket stitching…

…and the concho top button!

This one has been washed a couple of times now and is starting to show it’s character.

September

September is here and in my book it means it’s time to introduce new pair of jeans into rotation! I have never been a “one pair only” -guy but for the past few years I have tried wearing one pair a little more than others. Starting in September 2015 it was RRL 1936 Buckle Back Jean and it looks like this today. In Sept. 2016 I started with Mister Freedom Lot64’s. I bought these rinsed from the MF store in Los Angeles. After about a year and four washes they are starting to break in nicely. This year it will be RRL’s again. I’ve had these Straight Fit jeans waiting for couple of years already.

Mystery 1930 Buckleback Jeans

I ran into this photo from 1930’s on “Vintage American Workwear” IG Thread

The Jeans in the front started bugging me because there are lots of recogniseable features. However it’s clearly a mix of several influences:

• Levis “arcuates” – these were very commonly used until 1940’s also by many other brands. From the big names, LEE and Wrangler used arcuates and countless small brands as well.
• Cinch/Buckle – most of the pre WWII jeans had one. Many times it was placed higher in the same level with belt loops. If a person used belt, then it was common to cut off the Cinch. Here it is clearly placed lower so it is possible to use both.
• Belt loops: practically all jeans had belt loops from 1920’s onwards.
• Small white tab (peeking under the belt). Clearly smaller than normal Levis and Lee leather tags, but again there were so many brands that had a similar small tag. Few examples here (Pic. from Lightning Magazine: “The Denim Bible” (p.24)

• Back Pockets: This is the confusing bit. They are large and “round” -shaped. During that time square pockets were more common in jeans (or waist overalls) like in this example from Crown below. Round pockets were commonly used in overalls.

I found some pictures with all the details in place, except for the arcuates.NOS BicMac jeans on the left and unknown pair in the right. Both of these have a tool pocket in the right hip, whereas we cannot see if the Jeans in the original picture have one.

 

H.D. Lee did have distinctly round pocket design already in the 1930’s and did in some examples use the arcuates. Below is a picture from Michael Harris’s great book “Jeans of the Old West” (page 162). Here Lee has used both the arcuate and a horizontal stitch. But, very uncharacteristicly for Lee, the pockets are not round-shaped. Also, it was common those days for Lee to use X-shaped bartacks in the top corners of pockets, insted of rivets as here.

In the lack of a better theory, I suggest that the jeans in the picture are indeed Lee’s.

We know best their “Cowboy” Jeans and Jackets from 1930’s. However, these could be from their purely workwear collection. Lee also had small white tags in use (pic from Berberjin website).

So the mystery remains. I will have to keep my eyes open and will update this post if something comes up.

Bootleggers Reunion 601XX Jeans

I have been extremely lucky to start the Year 2016 with a pair of Bootleggers Reunion 601XX model jeans.

This Made in Japan pair is from 2009 and it is a very well made reproduction of a 1947 style Jean.

 

Bootleggers Reunion does no longer exist as a independent brand. However it still is one of the Sub-brands of the Freewheelers & Company. I have the jeans for the month of January as a part of the DenimBro Forum Freewheelers 2016 World Tour. These jeans will be used by 12 different people around the world and this voyage is documented at the Denimbro Forum.

They will get a rather cold start in -25C Scandinavia. Amazing pair of jeans…

Lee 101 Union B jeans

This was a find from the Sales. Lee 101 collection Union B Dungarees from propably a couple of seasons ago.

Made of surprisingly nice selvage denim and nice mix of vintage features and modernized fit without been too slim or low.

Good fit, nice denim and quality materials – overall a well made pair of dungarees from H.D.Lee company.

Summer moods

Have a great summer y’all!

Wear lots of faded denim, t-shirts and sneakers…

Chambray Season

Chambray shirts are one of the most commonly paired items with Jeans. By definition Chambray is altogether different fabric than denim and here’s one comparison I found on the internet.

“A chambray is a plain weave fabric woven with a colored yarn in the warp and a white yarn in the weft. The chambray’s warp and weft threads will alternate one over the other, while denim’s warp thread will go over two threads in the weft before going under one. Typically, you will notice a lighter color to the underside of a denim fabric, whereas the underside of chambray will appear much more similar to its face side.”  Another  addition is that “Chambray is a plain weave, whereas denim is a twill. Usually carded or combed yarn is used for chambrays, the construction is normally with heavier warp than filling yarns and the warp is always coloured whilst the filling is almost always white. Gingham might the closest material to chambray albeit these days gingham is rarely seen in plain colourways.”

I enjoy wearing Chambray shirts, because they do match well with denim. Mostly Chambray shirts come in quite lightweight fabric 9 oz or less that are perfect for summer months. However, recently some Japanese brands have been introducing also heavier Chambrays. Here’s a couple of examples from my wardrobe

Indigofera Jeans lightweight Japanese Chambray popover

 

Five Brother Chambray

Five Brother is an American Company that was originally founded on 1890’s. It was recently rejuvenated by a Japanese ownership and is making primarily shirts.

Ironheart 11 oz Chambray workshirt (10th Anniversary Edition)

Carhartt x APC red Chambray workshirt

Chambray pocket Squares by Engineered Garments and Hillside

Levis Made & Crafted Selvage Denim Chino

My Hunt for a Selvage Denim Chino was finally over recently when I found this pair of Levis Made & Crafted Sander Denim Chino.

I wanted to get a Denim chino with three specifications:

1) Selvage denim

2) Cinchback

3) Suspender buttons

…and this pair checked all three boxes. As an additional bonus the fit was neither too wide nor skinny – just about right.

The Braces are from RRL

The model is originally from 2011/12 season, so this was last of some old stock. It’s marked Irregular inside, but I haven’t found any other fault other than some discoloration of pocket bags with Indigo blue.